In recent seasons Talbot Runhof designers Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof moved away from their signature draped gowns in favor of elevated daywear. Many designers made similar decisions as more retail-friendly pre-collections gained tract…

"The sun must have his shade." Kris Van Assche borrowed the cryptic line for his invitation from sixteenth-century poet Thomas Campion, which was pretty much in keeping with Van Assche"s track record. He"s often been partial to a little hi…

Peter Jensen"s elevation of eccentric elegance reached an oddly logical way station with his Pre-Fall collection: the masked Black and White Ball hosted by Truman Capote at New York"s Plaza Hotel on November 28, 1966. Jensen has always had…

Anyone who still imagines fashion remains willfully oblivious to current events would probably be surprised to learn that Tomas Maier was inspired by 2011"s Arab Spring, when he conceived the latest men"s collection for Bottega Veneta. The…

"Urban warrior." It"s a concept almost any girl could get behind, not least a New Yorker. Who doesn"t need a little stomp in her step to survive the morning commute? "I always walk to work with my headphones and sunglasses on, and you"re i…

For Ellery"s first-ever Pre-Fall collection, Sydney-based designer Kym Ellery decided to focus on luxe. There were serious fabrics here—brocade, velvet, duchesse satin—and high-drama silhouettes, like the voluminous organza dress or the in…

Will Americans ever be able to get over the fact that Porsche Design is not about cars, but instead about clothes? Who knows? It doesn"t seem to bother the Europeans, where it"s been a brand name since the 1970s. But one thing is for certa…

With all the real-time tweeting and Facebooking and red-carpet YouTubing and Instagramming that wrapped today"s Burberry show in a great big techno-bow, it"s no wonder Christopher Bailey wanted to step back and, as he put it, "celebrate th…

With all the real-time tweeting and Facebooking and red-carpet YouTubing and Instagramming that wrapped today"s Burberry show in a great big techno-bow, it"s no wonder Christopher Bailey wanted to step back and, as he put it, "celebrate th…

Fashion companies are increasingly turning to contemporary art to elevate their profile, and that"s what Piazza Sempione did this season. The label"s Fall collection was presented in a stark showroom with a video installation/performance b…

"This is a cashmere fur," said Brunello Cucinelli, pointing out an elongated gilet with a lining so soft it was almost impalpable. Cashmere fur? Never heard of it; but apparently there is no limit to what can be achieved by the über-skille…

What Raf Simons is doing with fashion is something unprecedented. Yes, the act of creating anything is always going to be autobiographical at its root, but the way Simons has been exploring his past is on a higher plane. It is so arcane an…

The lure of a Mary J. Blige mini-concert attracted a larger than usual crowd Friday night to the Malandrino show. Despite a tiered, rotating stage that made serious viewing something of a challenge for most of the audience, everyone went h…

For Fall, Ohne Titel"s Flora Gill and Alexa Adams were inspired by space suits. "We were intrigued by the way they morph what we think of as normal proportions on the body," Adams explained at a preview. The heart of this collection was un…

Nicole Miller applied a light touch to her first-ever resort collection, which took inspiration from the forties and the seventies without becoming too theme-y. Shirtdresses, high-waisted shorts, and khakis topped with jaunty fedoras were …

Has Nicole Miller gone over to the geek squad? The designer"s last two shows took cues from the sci-fi cult film Gattaca, and her latest Resort collection was inspired by refracted light (a middle school science fair staple, if memory serv…

There was a subterranean Alice in Wonderland vibe to the Mulberry presentation today. Under normal circumstances, that"s the kind of cutesy/kooky look this brand works overtime to telegraph, in very non-subterranean ways, but in this insta…

Under the tutelage of an in-house "nose," David Koma has been in intensive training to bring his nostrils up to speed with the fragrance side of Mugler"s business. "It"s incredible, very interesting, and part of the big project to bring bo…