For Fall, Ohne Titel"s Flora Gill and Alexa Adams were inspired by space suits
For Fall, Ohne Titel"s Flora Gill and Alexa Adams were inspired by space suits. "We were intrigued by the way they morph what we think of as normal proportions on the body," Adams explained at a preview. The heart of this collection was undeniably knitwear, rather than anything as literal as an astronaut"s synthetics. (During the preview, Gill was at home whipping up a few more samples on her knitting machine for the show.) On a plain gray sweater coat, you could easily make out the rounded shoulder and crenellated circular sleeve that bloomed at the elbow and softened into various textures before narrowing to raised bands at the wrist.
Using those techniques, Gill and Adams evolved the knit jumpers and short dresses with graphic blocks of red, black, gray, and royal blue and various tactile textures. They used velvet-trimmed zippers to play with adding and subtracting volume. That mixed-media concept was taken further in heavy but ultra-luxe coats that combined fur, shearling, curly lamb, leather, and thick ribbed knit. The look played to the sharp, ankle-booted urban warrior they"ve been dressing for a few seasons. But here there was a lighter touch of sophistication in sheer organza blouses, layered under stark but pretty dresses with circular pleats—a NASA-gear echo—fringed with fake hair.
This season seems to be the first in the wake of the recession with an overwhelmingly packed schedule. Gill and Adams aren"t unknown newbies, but the glut of designers does underscore the importance of standing out. There are often echoes of other designers here—today Balenciaga was one—but Gill and Adams have more than enough skill and vision to earn Ohne Titel its place at the table.Welcome to visit my Coach Outlet Online store: http://official.uscoachoutletbags.com
Nicole Miller applied a light touch to her first-ever resort collection
Nicole Miller applied a light touch to her first-ever resort collection, which took inspiration from the forties and the seventies without becoming too theme-y. Shirtdresses, high-waisted shorts, and khakis topped with jaunty fedoras were interspersed among airy open-work frocks and Halston-esque caftans; clingy knit tank dresses shared the runway with flowing pajama-style pool cover-ups. As in any Miller production, prints were key: Plumes and tropical-greenery motifs stood out, but most intriguing was a very of-the-moment Ossie Clark-style floral.Welcome to visit my Coach Outlet Online store: http://official.uscoachoutletbags.com
Has Nicole Miller gone over to the geek squad?
Has Nicole Miller gone over to the geek squad? The designer"s last two shows took cues from the sci-fi cult film Gattaca, and her latest Resort collection was inspired by refracted light (a middle school science fair staple, if memory serves correctly). Turns out, though, that her visible-spectrum theme was more chic than geek. Draped dresses and tunics came in a pretty, prismatic print, and ombré pieces in rainbow colors were eye-catching even if they called for a specific kind of occasion—say, a summer music festival. Miller also added one of her best-selling metal dresses to the mix, updating it this season with an asymmetrical neckline and allover ruching.
The best looks, however, were the more casual ones that borrowed from vintage menswear silhouettes: an easy, strapless jumpsuit with wide legs in silk georgette; a rugged oilcloth parka jacket with drawstring sleeves; and super-baggy, pleated trousers that were surprisingly flattering (on the skinny model, at least). The designer"s favorite pants had a man-repeller trifecta going on: mid-calf, drop-crotch, and high-waisted. Miller called them her "nerdy pants," but we can think of a few cool girls who"d want to give them a trial run.Welcome to visit my Coach Outlet Online store: http://official.uscoachoutletbags.com
But then again, who knows?
There was a subterranean Alice in Wonderland vibe to the Mulberry presentation today. Under normal circumstances, that"s the kind of cutesy/kooky look this brand works overtime to telegraph, in very non-subterranean ways, but in this instance it was accidental, a byproduct of the collection"s theme of enlargement. After a while, watching all those swollen sleeves, giant sweaters, magnified checks, and mega-size pleats come down the runway put you in mind of a shrunken Alice, searching for the pill that would make her big again. The emphasis on disproportion was conscious here; one suspected that the slightly surreal effect was not.
But then again, who knows? With this collection, Mulberry"s Emma Hill seemed to aim for a new mood, a brooding tone atypical of her distinctly chipper style. The palette was almost uniformly dark, with an emphasis on black, wine tones, and a very pretty deep emerald. Aside from some accenting hits of yellow, there was nothing bright on the runway. And Hill"s best prints, dense florals that she also executed in jacquard, had a weird, moonlit quality, as if one were sleepwalking through a garden at night. The enveloping rich and fuzzy textures hinted at something similarly uncanny. So there was a strangeness to this collection, which was welcome, but it wasn"t quite strange enough. As a whole, the show communicated Mulberry"s upbeat party line, which is that a gentle eccentricity is best celebrated through clothes that are a touch girlish and very natty and polished. The most reiterated silhouette was a short skirt with giant, cheerleader-style godet pleats. This season, the cheerleader was summoning a dreamy, dark attitude. But you never got the sense she wouldn"t make it to the pep rally on time.Welcome to visit my Coach Outlet Online store: http://official.uscoachoutletbags.com
Apparel-wise, Koma is benefiting from his time at Mugler, too
Under the tutelage of an in-house "nose," David Koma has been in intensive training to bring his nostrils up to speed with the fragrance side of Mugler"s business. "It"s incredible, very interesting, and part of the big project to bring both sides of the house together," Koma said of his olfactory crash course after today"s show.
Apparel-wise, Koma is benefiting from his time at Mugler, too. It"s not that he needs to learn a great deal; his recipe for rigorous (but not severe) body con has been long developed. The advantage is that chez Mugler, exposed to neither the hints of scrappiness in production nor the incongruity of context that sometimes compromises his clothes" impact in London, that recipe can be savored to best effect. And while hot, (mostly) short, unabashedly sexy dresses do not chime with the spirit of our age—perhaps only Versace is knocking them out as dedicatedly as Koma—it means that, counterintuitively, his métier represents something of a niche.
Today Koma took circuitry, the innards of whatever device you are using to read this now, as his decorative theme. Perhaps the finely constructed but gaudily bonded gold-coated leather and white silk/wool pieces were a tad de trop, but for the most part it was a riff gently played. His opener of chip and conductor silk panels on wool, black on black, hummed gently. The one-shoulder, wire-strap dress in leather solder-board green didn"t scream Tron, even if, when asked if the film had influenced him, Koma confessed, "a bit." The movement of one knit dress (black, solid-bodied but semi-sheer-gridded at the skirt and arms) was strikingly sinuous, but most all of these pieces—including the tightly tailored leather topcoats—had a fierce sexiness to them. This collection was considerably more Koma than Mugler. But, as the man himself is out of the game and his current replacement has his own, not entirely incompatible point of view to express, it makes sense to let him express it.Welcome to visit my Coach Outlet Online store: http://official.uscoachoutletbags.com
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